Skin is the mix beginners fear most, and the tube marked "flesh tone" is why so many portraits look like mannequins. Real skin isn't one colour — it's a temperature conversation between warm light and cool shadow, played out over a surprisingly simple base. Here's the whole system.
Nearly every working portrait painter starts from the same three-pigment chord: titanium white + yellow ochre + a warm earth red (burnt sienna, or cadmium red for higher chroma). That's it. The differences between fair, medium, olive and dark skin are ratios, not different pigments:
Fair skin — mostly white, a little yellow ochre, a touch of red. Medium/olive — equal-ish ochre and sienna, less white, a whisper of green or raw umber to kill the pink. Dark skin — burnt sienna and burnt umber dominate, white used sparingly, and the lights are often more chromatic (warmer, richer) than in fair skin, not just lighter.
Beginners lighten skin with white and darken it with black or brown. But white cools and chalks a mix; black deadens it. Real skin shifts temperature as it shifts value: light areas lean warm yellow, halftones go slightly red (blood shows through where the skin turns), and shadows go cool — often surprisingly green or violet. If your portrait looks like plastic, you painted value shifts but not temperature shifts.
The old masters underpainted faces in verdaccio — a greenish grey — precisely because skin shadows read green next to the warm lights. Try raw umber + a touch of viridian + white for a shadow mix, then glaze or paint the warm lights over it. The moment a slightly green half-tone sits next to a warm light, skin starts to glow.
The hardest part isn't mixing — it's seeing. Skin fools the eye constantly: what you'd swear is "brown" on a cheek is often desaturated orange; a shadow you'd call "dark skin colour" is actually a grey-violet. Painters solve this by isolating colours — holding up a hole punched in grey card to see one patch at a time.
Squint Lab does this digitally. Load your reference portrait, tap anywhere on the face, and it shows you the isolated colour plus which pigments from your own paint box to mix — including the ratio, and whether you need it lighter or darker. Its colour-mass mode also breaks the whole face into flat shapes so you can see exactly where light ends and halftone begins.
Analyse your portrait reference free in Squint Lab